Nas cove from the hillside: a strip of sand, the river pool and deep-blue sea

Ικαρία · The island where people forget to die

Ikaria, where time slows down and nobody minds

Wild beaches, warm springs and village feasts where people dance until sunrise, on the Blue Zone island where nobody has looked at a clock in years.

A letter from Ikaria

39 sunsets. And not a single cloud.

years
12
years
sunsets last summer
39
sunsets last summer
clouds
0
clouds
Taverna tables under a great tree by the sea in Ikaria
where people go to people
Stone houses and a kafeneio on the square of Christos Raches
the square in Christos Raches

Long ago, Niko told me that Ikaria is an island you either hate or fall in love with, and that the love lasts a lifetime.

That is how it happened to me. I fell in love. I became addicted, and the only cure was to keep going back. Again and again… for twelve years now. You can never fully part with Ikaria. You tuck it away deep on the left, close to your heart, so that it doesn't hurt too fiercely, and you wait for the next meeting.

Ikaria is an island with its own time, its own sound and its own rhythm. It is not an island you tick off as a number before moving on to the next one, where the only proof you were ever there is the little souvenirs you bought. I know island collectors.

Ikaria collects you.

Slowly, piece by piece, until it has made you into a finished picture with no missing parts.

I am not writing about the endless blue of the sea or the deep violet of the evening sky. All the Greek islands are indecently beautiful. Nor is it the centenarians, who draw foreign visitors like a magnet. Nor the heavenly, honest food, the liquid gold of the olive oil, the honey that smells of forest and bees, or the ruby local wine.

I am writing about the people.

About Anna with the widest smile, and Niko, an aesthete to perfection. About Atsahas, who dreamily crumbles oregano while his faraway gaze follows the sunlight dancing on the waves, warm-hearted Galya, and Dimitris, always ready to help. And all our friends there, with their kindness of gold.

That's just how it is: the soul of the island is its people, each one of them unrepeatable. Every one of them wins you over in their own way and pulls you back there. With a smile, because people go to people, not to stones.

The warmth of the Ikarians has been pulling my heart to the land of Icarus for twelve years. To warm it and widen it, to enrich it, to free it of doubt and to fill it with a wide horizon and a longing for more, and more.

Who would turn down so much wealth: 39 sunsets in one summer, and not a single cloud?

With love, from Ikaria

The founder of Islands for Islomaniacs · 12 years of coming back

Hour by hour

A perfect day on Ikaria

There is no rush on the wild north-west coast. Here is one day there, with places to stay and eat along the way.

  1. 09:00

    A swim where the river meets the sea

    Walk down past the stones of the Temple of Artemis to the pebble cove at Nas. Fresh water from the Chalaris gorge on one side, the open Aegean on the other.

    Ruins of the Temple of Artemis at Nas, near the river mouth
  2. 11:30

    Into the oak forest

    Drive up through the trees to the Monastery of Theoktisti and the tiny chapel hidden beneath a boulder. Bring water and no plans.

    Whitewashed Monastery of Osia Theoktisti among flowers
  3. 14:00

    Lunch under the trees

    Goat with rosemary, wild greens, a jug of Ikarian red, and a village square that empties only when the heat does.

    Tables set outdoors under a tree for a village feast
  4. 17:30

    Siesta, then the long beach

    Sleep it off the Ikarian way, then wander down to Livadi or Messakti when the sand is gold and the crowds have gone.

    White houses of Armenistis above a sandy bay
  5. 20:30

    Fish and the sunset over Nas

    Take a table above the bay, order what came in that morning, and watch the sky go through every colour it has.

    Rocky coast near Nas at dusk
  6. 23:30

    The village that wakes up at night

    In Christos Raches the shops and kafeneia open late and stay open later. In summer, follow the music to a panigyri and join the circle.

    Stone houses and a kafeneio on the square of Christos Raches

Where to stay

Where you'll wake up on Ikaria

All stays

Only in Ikaria

The things you'll tell everyone about

Long lives, all-night feasts, a village on night hours and hot springs by the sea.

Mountain road winding above the north coast between Nas and Christos Raches

A Blue Zone of long lives

Ikarians reach 90 at about two and a half times the rate of Americans. Herbal teas, a mostly plant-based diet, steep daily walks and strong community are the usual explanations.

Taverna tables under a great tree by the sea in Ikaria

Panigyria that last till dawn

Summer saints' days are celebrated with village-wide feasts of goat stew, wine and the fast, circling Ikariotikos dance. Everyone is welcome, and the music rarely stops before sunrise.

Stone houses and a kafeneio on the square of Christos Raches

A village that wakes at night

In Christos Raches shops and kafeneia traditionally open in the evening and stay busy past midnight, a habit dating back to the island's pirate-wary past.

Old whitewashed building with blue windows in Therma

Radioactive hot springs

The mineral springs at Therma have drawn bathers since antiquity and still feed the municipal spa and natural rock pools by the sea.

White houses of Armenistis above a sandy bay

“There's always place for one more.”

At every Ikarian table

Towns & villages

Where you'll fall for Ikaria

All towns & villages
View of Christos Raches, Raches, Ikaria
01
Raches

Christos Raches

The village that keeps night hours

Ikaria's best-known mountain village sits high above the north coast among pine and oak. Its central square fills up after dark, when shops, bakeries and kafeneia open their doors and locals gather until the small hours.

  • Evening market life
  • Local honey, herbs and wine
  • Trails into the Ranti forest
Discover Christos Raches
View of Armenistis, Raches, Ikaria
02
Raches

Armenistis

Fishing village above golden beaches

A cluster of white houses tumbling down to a small harbour. With the long sandy beaches of Livadi and Messakti just east of the village, Armenistis is the island's liveliest summer base.

  • Livadi and Messakti beaches
  • Sunset over the Aegean
  • Easy walk to Nas
Discover Armenistis

Things to do

Moments to collect

Tables set outdoors under a tree for a village feast

Festival

Join a summer panigyri

Look for posters announcing a saint's-day feast. Pay a small fee for food and wine, which funds the village, then dance the Ikariotikos until dawn. 15 August is the biggest night.

Villages island-wide, July–September

Seychelles beach turquoise cove

Beach

Hike down to Seychelles beach

A short, steep path from the road ends at a cove of white boulders and clear turquoise water. Bring shoes, water and shade; there are no facilities.

Near Manganitis, south coast

Rocky coast near Nas at dusk

Hike

Walk the Chalaris gorge from Nas

Follow the river inland from the beach at Nas past rock pools and plane trees to a small lake. Easy to moderate, and best in late spring when the water runs.

Nas, north-west coast

Good to know

Before you fall for Ikaria

Ikaria is famous for how long its people live. Researchers named it one of the world's five Blue Zones, crediting a diet of beans, greens, herbs and local wine, daily walking on steep hills, afternoon naps and a close-knit social life. The wild north-coast beaches and the summer panigyria bring you here. The pace is what keeps you.

Area
255 km²
Population
≈ 8,300
Highest peak
1,037 m
Blue Zone
1 in 3 reach 90
  • Slow travel
  • Wild beaches
  • Village festivals
  • Hiking

Ikaria through the ages

Named for the boy who flew too close to the sun, this island has been a sacred site, a pirate refuge, a short-lived free state and a place of exile.

Walk through the story

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