Emporio

The biggest village on the island, and one of the least visited. At its heart is the kasteli, a Venetian-era fortified quarter whose houses form the outer wall, with lanes so narrow and twisting they were built to confuse pirates. Above the village, a line of old windmills stands on the ridge of Gavrilos. It is a place to wander without a map, with the black-sand beach of Perissa a few minutes away.