View of Fry, Fry & Emporeios, Kasos

Kasos · Fry & Emporeios · Φρυ

Fry, the capital round the harbour of Bouka

Fry is the capital and port of Kasos, a small white town on the north coast with fewer than four hundred people. Its heart is Bouka, the old harbour, a round basin of still water entered through a narrow mouth, ringed by fishing boats, café tables and the white-and-blue church of Agios Spyridon. Around it are the lanes, the square of the Heroes' Monument, the Archaeological Collection and the windmill on the shore, and everything is a few minutes' walk away.

The harbour of Bouka in Fry at dusk, its water lit from below, with the church of Agios Spyridon

Greetings from Fry

Fry, Kasos

The plane from Karpathos took longer to taxi than to fly. Tonight we sat on the edge of Bouka with grilled fish and a carafe of wine, and when it got dark the whole harbour lit up green from under the water, with the bell tower of Agios Spyridon white above the boats. Nobody here is in a hurry, and we have stopped being in one too.

Wish you were here. x

A tiny capital of white and blue round a little round harbour, where the water is lit from below at night

The story of Fry

Bouka was the old anchorage of Fry: a natural round basin opening to the sea through a narrow channel, just big enough for the island's small boats. The fishing caïques still tie up here, painted red, white and blue, and since 2020 the harbour has been lit from under the water, so that at night the boats seem to float on green glass. Above them stands Agios Spyridon, with its blue domes and tall bell tower; inside is a carved wooden templon of 1866.

In the middle of town, the Heroes' Monument remembers the islanders of 1824, with two anchors and four cannons, and the Holocaust Monument by the sculptor Anatolis Lazaridis stands on the square of the Town Hall. Every year from 7 June Fry gives three days to the memory of the Holocaust of Kasos, when the Ottoman-Egyptian fleet destroyed the island, and to the title it has carried ever since: the Heroic Island of Kasos.

Kasos once lived from the sea, with hundreds of ships around 1800, and later from the far side of the world: from 1859 Kasiots went to Egypt to dig the Suez Canal and stayed on in Port Said, Ismailia and Suez. Some of the great Greek shipowning families came from here. Fry is small, but it has an Archaeological Collection with Minoan stone vessels from Helatros, a Maritime Museum and the N. G. Mavris Municipal Library, with some 4,000 books, founded by a Kasiot doctor.

The rhythm of Fry is the rhythm of the boats. When the ferry comes in, the town fills; when it leaves, it goes back to the café tables on the harbour, the fishermen mending nets and the evening walk to the windmill on the shore.

Hour by hour

A perfect day in Fry

A Kasiot breakfast, Minoan stone vessels, a swim at Emporeios, the domes of Panagia, sunset over Armathia and dinner on the lit harbour.

  1. 08:30

    Rusks, sitaka and honey

    Start the island way: barley rusks with sitaka, the soft sour cheese of Kasos, and thyme honey, with a coffee by the harbour.

    A Kasos breakfast of barley rusks, sitaka cheese and honey
  2. 10:00

    The Archaeological Collection

    See what the island has kept: Minoan vessels of serpentine from Helatros, pottery from Trapeza, a grave marker of the 3rd century BC and the guns of the 19th century.

    A Minoan stone vessel of serpentine from Helatros in the Archaeological Collection of Kasos
  3. 12:00

    A swim at Emporeios

    Walk along the coast to the sandy bay of the ancient port, swim in the shallow water, then eat fish under the tamarisks.

    The beach road at Emporeios with a taverna under a blue pergola
  4. 17:00

    Up to Panagia

    Walk up to the village of the old captains and find the Six Churches, a cluster of little vaulted chapels with red domes.

    The red domes of the Six Churches in Panagia, Kasos
  5. 19:30

    Sunset from Agia Kyriaki

    Drive up to the chapel of Agia Kyriaki, close to the highest point of the island, and watch the sun go down behind Armathia and Makronisi.

    Sunset over Armathia and Makronisi from the chapel of Agia Kyriaki
  6. 21:30

    Dinner on the harbour

    End at a table on the edge of Bouka, as the lights come on under the water.

    The harbour of Bouka at dusk, lit from under the water

Where to stay

Where you'll wake up in Fry

€€€€
Town hotel
Anagennisi Hotel

Fry · Fry & Emporeios

A hotel in Fry, the little capital and port of the island, a few minutes' walk from the old harbour of Bouka, the tavernas and the Archaeological Collection.
€€€€
Rooms & apartments
Blue Sky Rooms & Apartments

Fry · Fry & Emporeios

Rooms and apartments in Fry run by the Manousos family, close to the harbour and within walking distance of Emporeios beach.
€€€€
Hotel
Fantasis Hotel

Fry · Fry & Emporeios

A small hotel in Fry whose owners know the island well: their site is a guide in itself, from the walk to the cave of Ellinokamara to the great feast of Panagia on 15 August.
€€€€
Sea-view rooms
Amfi

Fry · Fry & Emporeios

Rooms with a sea view in Fry, listed in the municipality's directory of places to stay.

Where to eat

Tables we love in Fry

Harbour taverna
I Oraia Bouka

Fry · Fry & Emporeios

'Beautiful Bouka', with its tables on the old harbour of Fry, between the fishing boats and the church of Agios Spyridon. At night the water of the harbour is lit from below.
Taverna
O Mylos

Fry · Fry & Emporeios

A taverna in Fry for the dishes of the day cooked in the pot, fresh fish and grills.
Family taverna
Mariakis

Fry · Fry & Emporeios

A family taverna in Fry, a good place to ask for the island's own dishes: makarounes with sitaka, tiny dolmades and roikio.
Seafood taverna
Meltemi

Fry · Fry & Emporeios

Seafood in Fry, from the catch of the island's small boats.
Restaurant
Gyrogonia

Fry · Fry & Emporeios

On the square of the Heroes' Monument in the middle of Fry, with its anchors and cannons, the place to sit and watch the town go by.

Within an easy drive

Around Fry

The Six Churches in Panagia, Kasos

Panagia and the Six Churches

The village of the captains just above Fry, with its big church and a cluster of tiny domed chapels.

The beach road at Emporeios

Emporeios

The sandy beach and old port of ancient Kasos, a short walk east along the coast, with early Christian ruins behind it.

Armathia and Makronisi at sunset

Armathia

The uninhabited islet across the water, with the white sand of Marmara, by boat in summer.

The entrance of the cave of Ellinokamara at sunset

Agia Marina and Ellinokamara

The largest village, inland, and the ancient cave sanctuary beyond it.

Good to know

Before you go to Fry

Getting there

Ferries dock at the port of Fry, a few minutes' walk from Bouka, and the airport is just west of the town. Taxis meet the boats and the planes.

When to go

June to September for swimming. Come for 7 June to see the island remember 1824, or stay in the evening any day for the lights of Bouka.

Fall for more of Kasos

Every stay we recommend across Kasos, from village guesthouses to rooms on the sea.

See all stays

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