Syros · Getting there
Syros is the hub of the Cyclades, not a dead end. Ermoupoli was built as a port, it is the administrative capital of the islands, and people live and work here all winter, so the ferries keep running when most of the Aegean has gone quiet. From Athens you can be on the quay at Ermoupoli by lunchtime, and from there the boats fan out to Tinos, Mykonos, Paros, Naxos and beyond.
By plane
Syros has a small airport of its own, named after Dimitrios Vikelas, the Ermoupoli-born writer who was the first president of the International Olympic Committee. It takes only small planes from Athens. Most visitors still come by sea, which from central Athens is quicker door to door than it sounds.
In the farmland about 3 km south of Ermoupoli
Short domestic flights from Athens, about 35 minutes, on small propeller planes. Seats are few, so book early in summer.
Into town: About ten minutes to Ermoupoli by taxi. There is no regular bus from the airport.
Spata, east of Athens
Flights from all over the world, all year. The usual way in from abroad.
Into town: About 20–30 minutes by taxi or bus to the port of Rafina, or about an hour by metro, bus or taxi to Piraeus.
By ferry
Ferries from Piraeus, the port of Athens, about 40 minutes from the city centre by metro.
Piraeus (Athens) Ermoupoli, Syros
Fast boats take a little over two hours, the big conventional ferries about three and a half to four, with more space on deck and a lower fare.
Rafina Ermoupoli, Syros
Rafina is closer to Athens airport. Some boats sail direct, others call at Andros and Tinos first.
Island hopping
Ermoupoli Tinos
The nearest island, visible across the strait. An easy day trip to the pilgrimage church of the Panagia and the marble villages.
Ermoupoli Mykonos
Ermoupoli Paros & Naxos
Some boats go on to Ios and Santorini.
Ermoupoli Andros
Ermoupoli Other Cyclades
Links to the western islands and the small Cyclades change from year to year, so check the season's timetable.
When you land
You land in the middle of town
The ferries dock on the waterfront of Ermoupoli, a few minutes' walk from Miaoulis Square, the hotels and the bus station. You can walk to most rooms in town with a suitcase, though Ano Syros and Vaporia are uphill.
The buses are good
Syros has some of the best island buses in the Cyclades, because people live here all year. A loop runs from Ermoupoli to Kini, Galissas, Finikas, Posidonia, Megas Gialos, Vari and Azolimnos and back, and a small bus climbs to Ano Syros. Hire a car or scooter only if you want the wild north, where the buses are few.
Mind the steps
Ano Syros and the top of Ermoupoli are built of steps and lanes that no car can enter. There is a road to the edge of Ano Syros, then you walk. Bring shoes with grip: the marble paving of Ermoupoli is slippery when wet.
It is open in winter
Unlike most islands, Syros does not close. Hotels, tavernas, the Apollo Theatre and the shops in town stay open much of the year, which makes it one of the easier Greek islands for a trip in spring or autumn. The beaches, though, are quiet and the sea is cool until June.
Times and frequencies are typical for the summer season and change every year. Check the current timetable before you book.
Rooms with a view, picked for how they feel, not for star ratings.
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