
Ermoupoli
A 19th-century merchant city of marble squares, mansions and an opera house, built by refugees
Ermoupoli, the city of Hermes, god of trade, is the capital of the Cyclades and the most unexpected town in the Aegean. Instead of white cubes it has marble-paved squares, neoclassical mansions in ochre and pale blue, a town hall like a palace, a small Italian opera house and a working shipyard. It was built almost from nothing in the 1820s by refugees from the war of independence, and within a generation it was the busiest port in Greece. It is a real town, with schools, courts and a university department, where people live all year, and you can swim off the rocks below the captains' houses ten minutes from the main square.
- Miaoulis Square and Ziller's town hall
- An evening at the Apollo Theatre
- A swim off the rocks of Vaporia
- The El Greco in the church of the Dormition
- Loukoumi warm from the workshop






