Folegandros

Folegandros · Chora & the cliffs · Παναγία (Κοίμηση της Θεοτόκου)
The Panagia, the church on the rock
The church of the Dormition of the Virgin, simply the Panagia to everyone, is the largest church on Folegandros. It stands white on a bare rock above Chora, probably on the site of an ancient temple whose stones went into its walls: ancient inscriptions, sculptures and the bases of statues can be seen in its courtyard and inside. A cobbled path zig-zags up to it from Pounta square in about 15 minutes, and the view from the top, over Chora, the cliffs and the open sea, is the most famous on the island.
The white church on the rock above Chora, built from an ancient temple, at the top of a zig-zag path
The story of The Panagia
The church was once the katholikon of a convent. A marble inscription of 1687 records a renovation, and it took its present form in a rebuilding that began in 1816 and was finished in 1821. Its icon of the Virgin is woven into the island's stories of pirates and legends.
Above the church, on the height called Palaiokastro, stood the acropolis of ancient Pholegandros, and the pieces of the old sanctuary are everywhere: a carved Byzantine relief of the Mother of God, an ancient base with a Greek inscription by the door, a marble water basin, and the torso of an ancient statue, probably Roman, set into the wall of the bell tower.
Every Easter the icon leaves the church. On Easter Sunday it is carried down to Chora and from house to house; at sunset it is handed to the people of Ano Meria, who walk it to their church of Agios Georgios; on Easter Monday it visits every house in Ano Meria and returns to the Kastro for the night; on the Tuesday it goes to Petousis, Livadi and Karavostasis, blessing the houses and the caiques in the harbour, and, weather permitting, sails briefly round the nearby bays, before it is brought back up to its rock.
Good to know
Before you go to The Panagia
Getting there
On foot only: follow the cobbled path that starts at Pounta square in Chora, about 15 minutes uphill. Take water and good shoes.
When to go
An hour before sunset, when the houses of Chora below turn golden-red, or on the night of 14 August for the island's biggest feast.
More of Folegandros
Villages you'll want to see next

Chora & the cliffs
Chora
A village of squares on the lip of a 200 m cliff, around a medieval Kastro lived in without a break since it was built

Ano Meria & the north
Ano Meria
A farming village 3 km long, made of farmsteads, stone walls and lemon trees in round towers against the wind

Karavostasis & the south-east
Karavostasis
The 'ship stop', a harbour that had no ferry pier until 1984, with three family beaches round it
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