View of Artemonas, Apollonia & the hill villages, Sifnos

Sifnos · Apollonia & the hill villages · Αρτεμώνας

Artemonas, the elegant village

Artemonas sits about 2 km north of Apollonia, a short walk along the lanes. It is the most elegant village on Sifnos: beside the white Cycladic houses stand neoclassical mansions with gardens and painted doorways, built by island families who made their money at sea and abroad, and the whole village has been protected as a traditional settlement since 1978. Above it are the old windmills, and from the top you look down over the white villages, the terraces and dovecotes to Kastro and the sea. It is quieter than Apollonia, with a small square, a much-loved bakery and a few good places to eat.

Mansions, windmills and old churches on the hill above the capital

The story of Artemonas

Its name is usually linked to Artemis, twin sister of the Apollo of Apollonia next door. Its oldest potteries were here and at Ano Petali, inland and out of sight of pirates, before the potters moved down to the coast once the seas were safe.

Look into the churches. Agios Konstantinos, probably from the first half of the 15th century, is a three-aisled vaulted basilica, a plan found nowhere else on Sifnos. Panagia tis Kochis has a marble templon and fine icons, and on 15 August its courtyard fills with music, dancing and treats. At Panagia tou Gourna, on the edge of Ano Petali just south, hangs the Wheel of Life, an icon by the island's priest-painter Defterevon.

Artemonas takes its turn with Apollonia as host of the Sifnian carnival on the last Sunday before Lent, when islanders act out sketches about local life and the year's news, and the best are given prizes. The poet Ioannis Gryparis was born on Sifnos, and the village's small folk exhibition keeps a few of his things.

Where to stay

Where you'll wake up in Artemonas

Where to eat

Tables we love in Artemonas

Mezedopoleio
Ampati

Artemonas · Apollonia & the hill villages

A contemporary meze place in Artemonas for small Greek plates and wine in the evening, at fair prices.

Good to know

Before you go to Artemonas

Getting there

Walk from Apollonia along the lanes in about twenty minutes, or take the bus. The road on to Cherronisos and the empty north starts here.

When to go

Late afternoon, for the walk up to the windmills at sunset; or 15 August, for the feast at Panagia tis Kochis.

Fall for more of Sifnos

Every stay we recommend across Sifnos, from village guesthouses to rooms on the sea.

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